MAD FOR DESIGN

By Katlean de Monchy–

Philanthropist Barbara Tober, at 90, electrifies the room with her presence, wit and charm. Every year, on the first Monday in May, she hosts a luncheon in celebration of the Museum of Arts and Design’s artisan jewelry exhibition and sale. She is the Chair Emerita of the Board of Trustees, and a longtime supporter.

CeCe Cord, Barbara Tober, Barbara de Portago (Photo by Patrick McMullan/PMC/PMC)

The occasion this Monday in May was a presentation of “Out of the Jewelry Box,” 56 pieces donated by Ron Porter and Joe Price, who have collected and worn art jewelry throughout their 41-year relationship, pieces by queer artisans and about queer signifiers. Added to that are 22 pieces already in MAD’s collection by queer artists. The show will run at MAD for two years.
Barbara Paris Gifford was joined by the jewelry expert Tiffany Dubin in explaining how the museum selects its pieces. The museum has a method by which it searches for meaning to link cultural moments to accessory design. It’s more than beauty, they said; it is a reflection of history, place and people.

A David Webb Monkey brooch (1972). He died in 1975, a confirmed bachelor,. The House of Webb provided Ru Paul’s jewelry for the Met “Camp” Gala. Cast and polished 18k gold, platinum, enamel, diamond and ruby (photo by Jenna Bascom)

  • They look for pieces that rethink materials and artisans who apply skills to create new possibilities.
  • They admire pieces that document important political or social moments in history.
  • The curators like to see experimentation within the boundaries of jewelry.
  • They like pieces that stretch the possibilities of every day materials.
  • What they look for are pieces that reflect the diversity of the people who make contemporary jewelry.
  • They hope what they find will change the meaning of the word “jewelry”

By Sulo Bee, a nonbinary artist in Texas (2023) (Brass, copper, silver, steel, epoxy, enamel paint, rubber, sand, seashells (photo by Jenna Bascom)

There is passion, purpose and rigorous discipline. That is why the Museum of Arts and Design is involved and that is why MAD creates magic.

Barbara Tober with Tim Clark, the new director of the Museum of Arts and Design. (. (Photo by Patrick McMullan/PMC/PMC)

It is truly inspirational to meet a person like Barbara Tober, who was editor of Brides magazine for 40 years. There were a lot of people who knew her from those years, people from the fashion world like Jeffrey Banks and the model Pat Cleveland, the designer Han Feng, and Fern Mallis, the former director of the Council of Fashion Designer, all of whom came to the luncheon.

The model Pat Cleveland and Harold Koda, the former curator of the Met’s costume institute (Photo by Patrick McMullan/PMC/PMC)

 

The fashion designer Han Feng, Fern Mallis, and the designer Gemma Khang . (Photo by Patrick McMullan/PMC/PMC)

Because she was an editor at “Brides” magazine for 40 years, she became friends with many fashion and jewelry designers. From the fashion world, at the luncheon, were the model Pat Cleveland, and the designers Han Feng, Dana Buckman, Jeffrey Banks and Gemma Khang. Fern Mallis, former head of the Council of Fashion Designers, was there as well.

The jewelry designer Laura Lobdell, Katlean de Monchy, Benny Tabatabai, late of Tiffany, and Barbara Winston (Photo Patrick McMullan PMC/PMC)

While she was at “Brides,” some of the editors from “Vogue” would turn their backs on her at industry functions. They acted as if “Brides” was a trade magazine.

Phillip Bloch and Tinu Naija (Patrick McMullan PMC/PMC)

Barbara has spent her life telling happy stories and living a happy life, though she despairs, at 90, of having to use a cane. She is a force of nature and an advocate for the LGTBQ community and for self expression without any elitist narrowing of perception.

Barbara Tober is not afraid to be on the fringes. She gives a voice to people who might not be heard without her support and thus elevates our conversation on what is beautiful.

She is happy, fulfilled, a role model for life well lived.